Choosing a Custom Dress Shirt’s Collar
Most people notice your face before anything else. If you’re suited up, the closest thing to your face is your shirt collar and tie knot. We’re going to take a deep dive into the symmetry of style as it pertains to that all-important neckline.
Why Collar Choice Matters
The shape and size of your dress shirt’s collar has to be aligned with the rest of your outfit and body as a whole. The main things to take into consideration are your body type/size, the tie knot you generally tie, and the level of formality you’re going for with this shirt. Let’s look at a few mistakes so you can see if anything looks too familiar.
Mistakes
A dress shirt collar that is too large and bunches when wearing a tie
A tie knot that is far too large for the wearer and his dress shirt collar
A small tie knot in a non-structured dress shirt collar
The issues shown above are all fixable, whether by tie knot choice, collar choice, or the fit of the dress shirt overall. Let’s get into the different styles of dress shirt collars (There are a lot of them for custom dress shirts, especially if you’re in the Washington DC area)
Dress Shirt Collar Styles
Capitol Hill Clothiers offers 19 different collar options, each of which has its purpose and place. For this Style Guide though, we’ll be focusing on far fewer than that.
The Standard Collar
The Spread Collar
The Button-Down Collar
The Rounded or “Club” Collar
The Cutaway Collar
The Tuxedo Collar
The Standard Collar
This is what we call the quintessential dress shirt collar. It’s structured, has enough height and width to accommodate most normal tie knots, and is usually an easy selection for those who just want a dress shirt, no frills, no hassle. It works for most body shapes and sits properly with or without a tie.
The Spread Collar
This is a wider collar meant for larger tie knots like the Windsor. It also accommodates bow-ties well for those who wish to have versatility between both. This collar is one we recommend for taller or broader individuals. It keeps everything symmetrical with or without a tie and looks great on most people.
The Button-Down Collar
This is a collar designed not to get flappy or in the way. It can be worn with ties but we usually advise against it, as the collar begins to look very cluttered with all that going on. This is a great collar to wear in more casual scenarios without a blazer or sport coat.
The Rounded Collar or “Club” Collar
This is a more stylistically bold choice for men. It is often chosen for “banker shirts”, or shirts whose collar and cuffs are white but the main fabric is blue, red, or another bolder color. It is also a popular choice for women’s custom dress shirts. The rounded edge can add a feminine touch to an otherwise basic dress shirt.
The Cutaway Collar
This is a collar for people who don’t want the collar to get in the way at all. It’s great for full or double Windsor knots, bow ties, or ascots. Be advised though, it’s a rather odd-looking collar without a tie, so know your intentions when choosing it.
The Tuxedo Collar
This is likely not why you’re here, but it’s an important collar nonetheless. This one is limited exclusively to black tie or white tie dress codes and should only ever hold a bow tie.
How to Match Your Collar and Tie Knot to Your Body Frame
The right collar and tie knot can make or break a suit look. That’s why proportion is the real rule of thumb here. Not what GQ said was trending this month. Just simple balance between your shirt, your face, and your frame.
If you’re tall and lean, a standard collar helps anchor your look without widening your neckline too much. The narrow spread works especially well with a Four-in-hand or a Half Windsor knot, both of which keep the silhouette long and elegant. Too much bulk in the knot and you risk overwhelming your frame.
On the other hand, broader or stockier men benefit from wider collar styles like the spread or cutaway. These open up the neckline, creating room for a Full Windsor knot, which helps maintain proportion with a wider face and chest. It’s not about going big for the sake of it, it’s about giving your neck and jawline the space they need to breathe visually.
If you’ve got a shorter neck, steer clear of tall collar bands and large, bulky knots. A spread collar with a slim knot keeps the eye from bunching up at the neckline and elongates your upper half. Long neck? That’s where a higher collar band and thicker knot come into play. It fills in the vertical space and balances the height of your neck, helping everything look more tailored and even, even if you’re just wearing a shirt and tie.
Need a Custom Dress Shirt in Washington, DC?
Capitol Hill Clothiers can help! We offer concierge fittings (we’ll come to you!) an provide the absolute best value in the DMV. Feel free to reach out below!
