Men’s Guide to Black Tie Dress Code in DC
When you receive an invitation to a black tie event in DC, you may ask “What does black tie attire mean?”. Black-tie is the most formal of all dress codes you’re likely to encounter and typically signifies that the event will be an evening affair. Whether it's a gala, fundraiser, wedding, or red carpet event, knowing what black tie means and how to execute it properly is essential in order for you to not just meet the attire expectations, but exceed them. With that in mind, here is a complete guide to men's black tie dress code in DC.
Some of these looks are classic and timeless. Others aren’t. Can you tell the difference?
A Black Tuxedo
This means a black jacket with contrasting satin or grosgrain lapel, besom pockets (without flaps) optionally with the same satin or grosgrain trim, and covered formal buttons, usually also the same satin. There are varying levels of formality even within the world of tuxedos, but the most commonly accepted is one with a peak lapel (a shawl collar is more commonly seen on dinner jackets or smoking jackets). As for your tuxedo pants, they should be the same black fabric as the jacket and have the same contrasting satin or grosgrain accent as a trim line down the sides of the legs and on the waistband. Tuxedo pants are not worn with a belt, therefore should not have belt loops. Though it is optional, a tuxedo should be worn with (black) suspenders if you need the help keeping the pants at your waist.
Optional Upgrade: The Dinner Jacket
Depending on the event, a dinner jacket may also be an appropriate black tie look. This is a way for you to level up the style of your black tie ensemble, but do so at your own risk. Some events may not be right for this and even if they are, it’s something that, when done poorly, really sticks out.
A White French Cuff Tuxedo Shirt
There is a difference between a standard dress shirt and a tuxedo shirt. Traditionally, tuxedo shirts had pleats down the front but that has relaxed over time and now remains optional for most situations. Tuxedo shirts have 4 placket buttons that have been removed. Those holes are meant for studs (which should match your cuff links). As for the collar, tuxedo shirts should have a pointed collar that does not fold down around the back of the neck. This shows the bow tie and provides another layer of formality compared to a standard dress shirt. This has relaxed over time as well and there are several tuxedo shirt options with full collars but I recommend sticking with the traditional tuxedo shirt collar.
A Black Satin Bow Tie
This one is pretty simple. Do not wear a long tie. Find a black satin bow tie that is appropriately sized for the lapels on your tuxedo jacket and for your frame. Bigger guy? Bigger bow tie. The one thing I cannot stress enough is that you need to have a self-tie bow tie. That means nothing pre-tied. Pre-tied bow ties are flat, perfectly symmetrical (which is a bad thing here), and with a proper tuxedo shirt collar, show that you took the easy way out and clipped it on. A self-tie bow tie has more depth, looks less pressed and perfect (which is a good thing), and shows that you took time to put your black tie look together.
Black Patent Leather Shoes
This is something I see all the time that drives me mad. Black tie is a formal dress code and there are shoes specifically made to adhere to it. You may have black dress shoes, but for a black tie occasion, you need a high-polish patent leather shoe. In some less formal settings, velvet slippers may also be acceptable, but make sure you know the context of what you're attending and choose your footwear accordingly. This is not the time for normal black dress shoes and absolutely never for any other color dress shoe.
Black Socks
This one goes without saying. Nothing flashy, nothing unprofessional, just black dress socks. The thinner, the better, usually.
Watches
For a formal occasion, a formal watch is necessary. Don't wear your smart watch or G-Shock with a tuxedo, it's like wearing dress shoes with sweatpants. You don't need a Rolex, but make sure your watch band is either black or metal and the watch case/face matches or appropriately complements your cuff links and studs
Studs and Cuff Links
These are sold in sets and generally either match each other or complement each other. Keep your watch roster in mind when buying these, it's good to match the tone of metal used in one with the other and it's a lot more cost-effective to buy studs and cuff links that match your watch than to shop the other way around.
Pocket Squares
In a black-tie setting, your pocket square should almost always be white. As for how you wear it, a straight-across placement is ideal, though there's technically no wrong answer for how you wear a pocket square. Here’s a simple white linen pocket square that works for black tie looks and beyond.
What to Avoid
Do not over-accessorize. Keep your beaded and leather bracelets at home, keep your earrings modest if your ears are pierced, and stick with the basics. It’s right for this dress code.
Following these guidelines guarantees that you’re appropriately dressed for a black-tie event in DC. Keep in mind it’s best to err on the side of caution and go for the classic and timeless black tie look when in doubt. By adhering to the dress code, you will be able to enjoy the event without feeling out of place or underdressed, and if you're wearing a custom tuxedo from Capitol Hill Clothiers, you'll feel better than anything.
